2020 – an extraordinary year

Posted in Covid, Craft, Design, Embroidery, Hand sewing, Learning, lockdown, Recycling, Sewing, Textiles, vintage by Vintage and Me

I’m really happy to bring you this post, although it’s quite different to my usual offerings. This introduces a project I have been working on for three months, almost to the day. Let me tell you how it began…….

During 2020 I had been saying that I wanted to get back into embroidery but that there didn’t seem to be anything that needed embroidering these days. Then I started perusing some of the gorgeous accounts on Instagram and I came to the conclusion that it really is ok to embroider just because you want to.

I decided to start my adventures by ordering a series of kits from Nicki Franklin of The Stitchery: spring, summer, autumn and winter. These, I thought, would enable me to practice stitches without having to worry about design. Sometimes a blank canvas can be very uninspiring and even daunting.

One of the Instagram accounts I came across was ‘sarahedgarprettyfabrics‘. She had decided, during the first lockdown, to start a sampler embroidery under the title ‘sew a little happiness every day’ and the idea was that others would stitch along with her, filling the grid with whatever they wanted or following her suggestions. They would then share their progress using the same hashtag. I really liked the idea but I didn’t come across it until October/November time and by then I had rather missed the boat. My little head started buzzing and before long I had decided to make my own sampler including all my memories and happenings over the year. This would not only enable me to practice all kinds of techniques to re-familiarise myself with them, but also be an interesting thing to look at in the future, particularly with grandchildren who would not know about this infamous year.

The next decision I made was to base my sampler on a snippet roll because I have been wanting to make one for a long time but have never quite been able to find a reason to. The Accountant had given me two large vintage industrial thread reels, and one of these seemed to be the ideal starting point. This gave me a finished width possibility of eight inches maximum, or 20 centimetres. I quite liked the idea of some kind of constraint.

And so it began. I drew up a very quick list of everything I wanted to make sure to include on the embroidery, from family happenings over the year to the now familiar phrases that most of us heard for the first time in 2020. I also made the decision that the seasonal kits would feature to help define the year. A lot of the embroidery is quite personal and might need some explanation, but overall I am pleased with how decorative the piece is whether you ‘read’ it or not. And boy did I learn a lot! There are always some stitches that embroiderers favour, and also some they avoid if at all possible! I am proud to say that while I did a lot of stitching which I personally enjoy (fly stitch, couching, knots) I also became proficient at feather stitch (one which has often beaten me in the past) split stitch (I would still never choose it!) and everyone’s favourite – satin stitch! I also learned never to mark fabric with pencil unless you’re absolutely sure you’ve got it right. You will see quite a few pencil lines on my finished piece where I realised that the grid I had originally drawn was not working for me!

And on my lengthy journey I also learned to become more free and eclectic with my ideas. This might not seem important but I have always been so envious of people who can make a fabulously interesting page in a scrap book or sketch book, and this skill had always eluded me because my mind takes over and ‘tidies up’. This embroidery may well be the beginning of a much happier and exciting way of working and this pleases me greatly.

I am no embroidery expert – I would describe myself as an enthusiastic amateur – and you will see all kinds of errors and imperfections in my work, but this was really done just for my own pleasure and learning, so please excuse them. I have loved hand stitching for as long as I can remember and I did complete a City and Guilds on the subject over 25 years ago, but I have done very little since. I’m really happy to have come back to this slow and rewarding craft.

So, without further ado and if you are still following and haven’t lost interest, here are the images of the finished roll, with some explanations where I think they are necessary:

Oh, weren’t we treated to a fabulous Spring? The garden, the birds, the trees made lockdown so much more bearable for me and I really felt for those that didn’t have this luxury. I might have drunk a few gin and tonics, and Amazon (love them or hate them) kept me supplied with all my craft and reading needs while the shops were closed. The wren is stitched from a chart by Lucie Heaton and I added a few eggs to represent the season and the general busy-ness of the birds. Note the masked self portrait, complete with grey parting!

I was absolutely amazed at how we all accepted the new norm and queued to shop. Home has always been very important to me and became even more so in 2020. I discovered EPP (English Paper Piecing) during the year and since you can’t get much more homely than a vintage quilt I used it as a frame to represent all that home was, and all we achieved at home during the year. My first grandchild was born on 19th June and absolutely had to have an important snippet!

I might have changed from gin to Pimms in the summer! The little bee represents the fact that nature and the outdoors continued to be important, as did hammock time! Personally I like the contrast between the sweet strawberries-and-cream colours of the wreath and the harsh slogans in black. Kind of mimmicks the year quite well I think. My younger son Alec met Tessa and they have spent quite a lot of time on Zoom during lockdown! Love is in the air…. I had to include references to my business and all the businesses which helped it to be so successful. Coffee #1 continued to keep empty bottles for me to use as packaging, even though they were only open for takeaway for much of the time. And The Accountant worked so hard to get all the Singer cases ready for the machines I sell. He continues to be my hero. He was very excited to see a hedgehog in the garden one day. He’s fond of a hedgehog!

I think all women of a certain age who didn’t make the decision to ‘go grey’ during lockdown will understand the L’oreal can. Enough said I think… The Accountant finally got his new hip (cancelled in March). The only drawback was that I couldn’t go into the hospital and therefore couldn’t see him on his birthday. That was hard. But he is like a spring chicken now so it was all so worth it (a bit like the can!). I also used this area to acknowledge the great work of the NHS (note the Thursday clap), key workers etc. And I couldn’t ignore Captain Tom. Then we went into lockdown again…

Winter arrived and the Pimms turned to brandy! We also started to rather enjoy the chocolate I had bought for Christmas. I had to celebrate my return to embroidery with the little reel designed by happinessiscrossstitching.com and offered as a freebie. I also treated (or spoiled!) myself by buying the DMC vintage inspired chest containing one skein of every thread colour. It has been used quite a bit already! There are no political statements in this embroidery, I have just noted that Boris was at No. 10 and the Brexit deal was agreed on Christmas eve (represented by the union jack). We also saw the ‘Christmas star’, for the first time in decades apparently. The two hearts represent the fact that The Accountant and I spent Christmas alone, having had to cancel all plans at the last minute under government directives. But we still had a lovely Christmas, with beautiful presents, a tree, the usual foraging walk to make door wreaths, and champagne. And more chocolate because there was nobody else to eat it. Frida (my vintage dress form) joined in and was decked out in crocheted fairy lights from Adorable Devon Crafts. The gingerbread house is copied from a design by Sarah Edgar and is available as a kit I think.

And then we celebrated the new year….and went straight into lockdown again. But hopefully now things are on the turn and we will all be able to see our families again.

About halfway through the project I started sending some images of the little embroideries I was doing to my sister Julie, and she eventually asked: “are you doing a Covid tapestry?” and the name stuck. Just like the Bayeux tapestry there is no woven work, but unlike the Bayeux tapestry it is not 70 yards long – the embroidered area is approximately 58 inches in all. That’s about 145cms in new money. The stitching is done either directly onto the base fabric, which is a vintage linen towel from France, or onto other scraps of mostly vintage fabric and then sewn on as a patch (or snippet).

Once I had finished all the stitching I applied a very light, iron-on woven interfacing to the back of the whole piece, just to stabilise it and in case I had not finished off any threads properly. They are now welded in place! Then it was backed with a beautiful piece of vintage natural flax fabric bought on eBay and shipped all the way from Lithuania. This has given the finished item a very satisfying weight and handle. The edges are bound with a cotton fabric from my stash and then button loops and pre-used buttons added to hold the roll closed.

And that’s the story of my Covid tapestry! I have enjoyed making it so much, and I’m now excited to get on with my next project.

I wish you all well and happy as we (hopefully) return to more normal times,

Rachel x

30Sep2020

September 2020

Posted in Childhood, Craft, Design, Embroidery, Hand sewing, Retro, Sewing, Textiles, Uncategorized, vintage by Vintage and Me

Do you ever feel that you have lost track of who you are? You get busy with life and carry on with all the things that need doing, and all of a sudden you realise that there is something missing; something gnawing at you. This definitely happens to me from time to time, and usually when it does I turn to familiar and comforting books for inspiration and solace.

Recently I have come to realise that what I am missing right now is the gentle art of embroidery. I have always enjoyed hand embroidery, and just the sight of the lovely fabrics and threads involved gives me a warm, fuzzy feeling. Sometimes we need to slow right down and do something just because we want to and because we find the end result pleasing. That’s embroidery for me. Pretty, gentle and somewhat frivolous – perfect to bring me down to earth and distract me from all the worries of the world.

One book that I have returned to over the years is Wool Embroidery and Design by Lee Lockheed, published by New Holland in 1992. The designs are so timeless and delicate that the book doesn’t appear as dated as many craft books do years later.

And this month I have stumbled across a website called The Stitchery which reminds me very much of the book and has my mouth watering. I have been lamenting to my mother lately that I want to do some embroidery but that there is nothing which needs embroidering these days. This website is a timely reminder that it’s OK to embroider just because you want to. And that’s what I’m going to do. Somehow I already feel calmer.

This is the kit I have stitched this month: Autumn

Following on from this I have also now found an Etsy shop which sells scrummy embroidery kits, all designed in the New Forest – one of my favourite camping haunts when Cornwall seems just too far away. Lorna Bateman has recently released a book of her designs, which I have gladly added to my collection.

Last month I was bemoaning the fact that I needed a project to shake me out of the Covid doldrums. I decided to take on the second bedroom as it hadn’t been touched since we moved in four years ago, contained a selection of mismatched furniture and was still painted in soul-destroying magnolia.

Makes me feel cold just looking at the ‘before’ images…

Now, our house has a very ‘gentleman’s club’ feel to it thanks to some wonderful pieces of furniture The Accountant inherited from his mother and father. I would never want to replace these lovely things and I am therefore always trying to come up with cunning ways to add my stamp to the rooms: a show-wood chair upholstered in blue linen toile-de-jouy; a carved pedestal table with an embroidered panel under glass; and cushions painstakingly appliquéed by yours truly being some of my additions. Anyway, I digress. I decided that I needed something really pretty in my life, and the guest bedroom seemed the ideal place to express this. I have therefore unashamedly decked it out in a cottagey-vintagey-romantic style, with pink walls and gentle vintage quilts and china.

The bleached pine chest of drawers was already in the room and suits the new scheme really well I think. The bed is also the same as was there before and works as a great foil – I don’t like matchy matchy!

You might be shocked to learn, dear reader, that for the wardrobes I turned to Ikea! When I started thinking about the room I had an immediate vision in my head of the way I wanted the wardrobes to look, right down to the jug and bowl set which would fill the sloping gap and make it look as if I meant it! I just didn’t want to fork out for bespoke, fitted cupboards at around £5,000. So I spent £250 at Ikea instead! I’m really happy with the crisp feel these bring to the room, and little white bedside tables bring a bit of unity overall. As an added bonus, Ikea use a lot of recycled materials to make their boards.

The jug and bowl set was found on Ebay and was listed at £35. I offered £25 and was accepted. The lady lived in Lincoln but said she was travelling to Taunton that week and could meet me in Frome (less than ten miles from here) to exchange! You meet some lovely human beings when you buy vintage from Ebay! When I originally saw the set I thought it was a modern day replica, maybe Gisella Graham or something, but I liked the shape so I decided it really didn’t matter. On inspection it actually proved to be Royal Doulton and the mark dates it to 1891-1901. It really is beautiful and exactly what I was looking for – I don’t like the more ornately shaped Victorian ones. The mirror which hangs behind it is one I bought in a junk shop years ago.

The other vision I had for the room was to create unique ‘artworks’ for the walls. I have become a great fan of shadow box frames and I decided to create a series of mini curated collections on themes extremely personal to me. The first features some decorative plates (one with a petit point design) a silver jam spoon and a spray of sugar blackberries I made a while ago. The second is rather poignant. My paternal grandmother was not well liked in our family and I consequently grew up rather afraid of her. She died over ten years ago and it is only since then that I have learned a little more about her. You can read about this in a previous blog but I will just say now that this is a small tribute to ‘Edie’ – she is not forgotten. I have used a page from an old photo album to frame her (she loved flowers and birds) and surrounded her with fripperies which her story shows she would have enjoyed. The photo is a phone snap of a photocopied original so the quality isn’t good, but I think it works well enough.

The third frame is dedicated to the joy of decorative stitching. It includes some samples stitched by me, notions and tools and a lovely old book whose cover is its best asset and which is therefore perfect displayed this way.

The fourth frame is a work in progress. It features a poem I first read as a child – ‘Summer Morning’ by Rose Fyleman (1877-1957). Even now when I read it it makes me feel how I did then – free to explore and run. Next summer I will create a pressed flower surround for it, and the beautiful embroidered butterfly brooch from Vikki Lafford Garside will add interest.

My final act of artwork defiance was to frame my old childhood card game of Happy Families. I like the colours, and the characters are a joy to look at. My favourite is Master Squirrel – such concentration as he wields his little hammer!

Jobs still to do:

Although I love the little lampshades in this room, they’re not quite right for the scheme so I will be making new ones from a kit…
. We have an enormous embroidered table cloth which came from The Accountant’s father. It is a gorgeous thing but far too large for any table we will ever own, so I have come up with the idea of turning it into a bed throw to give it a new, useful life rather than languishing in a drawer. It will be layered on top of wadding (batting) and backed with a soft pink rose print fabric. And then I will spend hours hand quilting it. The one consolation is that I shall sit on the bed in my pretty new room to do this!

Well, I do feel refreshed by my creative spurt. I shall continue with my embroidery in between preparing machines for the Etsy shop. I even have an idea brewing in my head for a little design of my own. But that can wait for another day….

With best wishes

Rachel

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31Aug2020

August 2020

Posted in Craft, Design, Fabrics, Fashion, hand crank sewing machine, lockdown, Mid century, Mood boards, Retro, Sewing, singer sewing, Textiles, treadle sewing machine, Uncategorized, vintage by Vintage and Me

It’s very difficult to write an interesting blog at the moment because life has become rather static. I’m happy that sewing machines are still selling and keeping both myself and The Accountant busy in the workshop, but otherwise things have started to feel a bit stale and samey.

So what can a girl do to mix things up a bit and bring things to life? Clearly a project is needed…

There’s a distinctly autumnal feeling in the air – when did that happen? I think our summer peaked too early and took us all by surprise, and we’ve been waiting for more ever since; but the year has other ideas and has eased itself into the new season instead. We even had our first fire in the wood burner the other day.

And so my thoughts are turning to warm jackets and boots, and the chance to rummage through my vintage scarf collection again. All seasons have their advantages!

If you remember, last year I was attempting to make a navy blue jacket in a vintage style. But because of my choice of fabric and lack of skill I got myself into all kinds of bother and decided to ditch the project for my own sanity and because my language was making The Accountant blush. Imagine my pleasure, then, when a jacket I had ‘favourited’ (?) on Etsy was suddenly reduced from £95 to £38. That’s less than some of the fabrics I had been considering for my second attempt. So I snapped it up, and when it arrived I was extremely glad I had because it fits as if it were made for me – very unusual in a piece of vintage clothing I find. The shop it came from is SophieSiennaVintage and if the banner at the top is an image of the actual shop I just wish I lived near Whitby!

This jacket has a ‘Milium metal insulated lining’ which apparently keeps you warm in winter and cool in summer. I love that shoulder line – you can really feel the rolls at the top of the sleeve heads helping to keep the shape. It hasn’t been for its cleaning-and-pressing yet so it’s looking a little limp.

And so now I have been revisiting my ideas for how I am going to wear the jacket. Here is the mood board I put together at the time:

But of course it will also look great with jeans and boots…lazy me!

One little excursion I did take this month was to a small vintage fair in celebration of VJ day, held at Milestones Museum in Basingstoke – my old stomping ground.

I’ve always liked the museum and it was nice to have a wander round, although some of the exhibits are closed at the moment due to you-know-what. I really enjoyed browsing the stalls and spent a grand total of £29 on a book, a knitting pattern, a bangle (the striped one in the picture) and a woven plastic basket. Good spoils for the money I think!

That book, which is a collection of the best bits of Woman magazine for the year, has given me much amusement – it’s just amazing how backward both attitudes and housing were in Britain at the time! One letter from a reader describes how she had been unwell and her husband had therefore been forced to help with the housework. Consequently he had bought her a washing machine – for Christmas! The reader was very happy and said she thought there would be many more such gadgets if only husbands knew how much heavy work women had to do. The magazine replied: “We are quite certain that if all men shared the housework there would be, by now, washing machines, ironers, washing-up machines, vacuum cleaners (and the electric power to run them) in almost all homes.” Electric power in almost all homes! In 1951! Queen Victoria had been dead for 50 years by then!

We also attended our first giant flea market since lockdown and spent a good few hours scouring the stalls for treasure. All I managed to find were two thread reels for 50p each and a mid-century candle stick to add to my corner. But I was happy. The Accountant found a ‘new’ tool to help with his woodwork – a lovely old plane with all kinds of adjusting knobs. I think he even understands how to use it!

Now, what have I made this month? Um nothing. I started on a play mat for baby Oscar when he comes visiting, mainly because I couldn’t resist the fabrics – castles on the front and dragons on the back. And the yellow gingham will be cut on the cross and used for the binding. As I cut the fabrics I came up with a little project for The Accountant and he was pleased when I told him! (Snigger.) I thought he could make some simple wooden castle shapes based on those featured on the fabric and I could paint them bright colours. Then I will make a bag from the leftover fabric to keep them in. And Oscar will probably want to play with the TV remote control…

That’s all folks. Keep warm and safe and I’ll see you at the end of September…

Rachel

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31Jul2020

July 2020

Posted in Dressmaking, Etsy, hand crank sewing machine, Mid century, Retro, Sewing, singer sewing, Uncategorized, vintage by Vintage and Me

It’s been a bit of a nothing month here for one reason or another. The weather hasn’t helped of course – we really miss our lunches in the garden. I did manage a few nights’ camping in Herefordshire but had to spend most of the time hiding from the rain. It was rather nice just to do nothing but read though (and perhaps drink a little wine).

There have been a couple of minor additions to the vintage corner in the shape of a bonbon dish and a pair of sherry glasses. I didn’t need them but they just seemed so appropriate. I still smile every time I look at my corner!

I particularly like the yellow underside of the dish.

I also bought a ‘PRESTO’ sewing kit for the cabinet of curiosities. Why? Because it’s in a pink plastic box and has miniature things in it. Enough said. I’ve added a normal Sylko reel of thread for scale…

This month I was determined to continue with my testing of the Singer active attachments, and I have now turned my attention to buttonholers. I have four different models of these for low shank machines and I thought it would be good to compare them all.

First of all I need to talk about the feed cover plate which should be included with any of these attachments and is vital – it must be fitted before the attachment is used, to protect the feed dogs. These plates come with a dedicated screw and I don’t think any other screw will do, so please make sure it’s included if you buy one. There should also be a special screw for attaching the buttonholer itself to the presser bar and again this must be included because they are almost impossible to find otherwise.

The two images above show the cover plate fitted to Agents 99 and 221 respectively. Note my blue stubby screwdriver. I have always wondered why Singer didn’t produce a short screwdriver for working in the needle-plate area of machines – especially featherweights – because it really is difficult to get under there otherwise. So go out and find yourself one – it will save a lot of scratches to your precious enamel from trying to tighten screws at weird angles. Yes, you know you’ve done it. And I know I have!

The buttonholers in my collection are ‘for Singer lockstitch family sewing machines’ and they can be used with all low shank models – 127/8, 66/99, 15, 201, 221 and 222. The instructions make it clear that the cover plate should be used even with machines which can lower their feed dogs and that you should not lower them (that’s 222s, 201s and some later 15s). I should also state that on some models it is necessary to remove the thread cutter from the presser bar because the gadget can’t be fitted when it’s in place. No great problem.

The first attachment I tried was SIMANCO 86662, because this is the most basic looking – probably from the 1940s I should think. It comes in a nice card box with attractive graphics.

The next was SIMANCO 86718. This is the same gadget really but re-styled for the 1950s, with cream paintwork and red knobs. It’s housed in a red plastic box with the Singer logo on the lid. I’m quite partial to this one just because of the styling. It works in exactly the same way as the black one. But it has red knobs!

These two gadgets only make one style of buttonhole but there are quite a few adjustments you can make to get the look you want. You can of course alter the length of the buttonhole, but you can also choose the width of the zigzag, the density of the stitching and the width of the gap between the sides of the buttonhole, where it is cut. This means that you can get perfect results on all kinds of fabric. I am impressed! Once you have the settings you want, it really is a case of just cranking, or engaging the motor, and the process is entirely automatic. I think that for general sewing they are very good – children’s clothes, shirts, summer dresses etc. With just a little practice you could have a whole placket of identical buttonholes in no time.

Here is Agent 99 ready to turn out a nice row of buttonholes:

These images show the buttonholes before and after cutting. They have not been pressed and they were only stitched around once. Not bad I think! Take a moment to enjoy my vintage Singer seam ripper there…..

Right, now on to the big boys! These gadgets have various templates (like cams) which fit into their bases and create replica buttonholes. Once again they are more or less the same gadget, with styling applicable to their decades – 1940s and 1950s respectively. The only adjustment you can make on these is the width of the zigzag – everything else is controlled by the template. But they seem to work very well and make quite neat buttonholes which are nicely rounded at the ends. That’s the main advantage I think – sometimes the bars at the ends of buttonholes can look a little scrappy and these templates eliminate that. These buttonholers definitely give a better finish if you stitch twice around each buttonhole.

SIMANCO 160506 comes in a green plastic box with SINGER embossed on the top. The gadget is black with a nice white knob displaying a red Singer ‘S’. There are five templates – four standard buttonholes of varying sizes plus a large keyhole buttonhole for jackets etc. A little quirk of this setup is that the keyhole template has to be the one stored in the gadget when it is placed in the box because it’s the only one which allows the gadget to be closed up small enough to fit. I think you would have to own one to really understand what I’m talking about here, but trust me – it’s true!

Here is Agent 128 having a go, and making a very good job of it:

Next SIMANCO 489510. A thing of mid-century beauty. Atomic styling for the box coupled with body trim which could easily grace the interior of a car from the era adds up to something which, if it wasn’t already in my collection, I would have to hunt down. It functions in exactly the same way, and has the same templates as 160506 but it just looks…..cool. I suppose it was designed more for the beige-coloured 185s, 201s and the new fully electric models which still only performed a straight stitch. But the box looks great on the shelf!

So what are my conclusions from my trials?

I really like the neat way that there is a place for everything in all the plastic boxes – even somewhere to hold the fixing screw.
It is always advisable to run the machine slowly when making buttonholes.
Always tighten the fixing screws with a screwdriver – hand tightening is not enough.
The template-based buttonholers give perhaps a neater finish, but the others are certainly adequate for everyday sewing.
The trick with all the gadgets is in the preparation. Mark your fabric carefully first, and do several practice examples to ensure that you end up with exactly the buttonholes you want.
You have to be in the right mood to get your head round how to align the gadgets for perfect, uniform buttonholes. Or maybe it’s just me – I definitely need more practice!
Stitching twice around the buttonhole gives a much better finish – with any of the gadgets but especially with those that use templates.
You can get a set of four extra templates, SIMANCO part number 160668, to extend your repertoire. If you can find them. Do I have them? Well, what do you think…?

Oooh such a satisfying box!

If you do your sewing on a low-shank vintage machine I would highly recommend obtaining one of these gadgets. I think they perform better than the zigzaggers I have tried, in that they feel more reliable and less likely to do something you don’t want them to. I just feel I can trust them! Don’t forget to make sure yours has the cover plate and the two necessary screws – it’s really not worth buying one without. I must point out that the atomic style box also comes in a pink colour, but the gadget inside is for slant-shank machines and will not fit any of the models I have mentioned in this blog. You need to look out for the green box. Finally, if you are having trouble making neat buttonholes, try changing the needle! Old but good advice.

In each of the columns of buttonholes above the final one is stitched around twice.

This must be the first month for some time that I haven’t managed to make anything. What with getting to know baby Oscar and having builders around at home it just hasn’t happened. Hopefully I will have something to show you next month.

I notice that there is going to be a vintage and retro fair at Milestones museum in Basingstoke on 15th and 16th August. I hope I’m able to go – I’ll report back if I do. If you haven’t been to the museum before this is an ideal time to visit – it’s a great venue.

Stop press! As I sit typing this a lovely DHL man has just delivered my fabulous Royale Enamel clock! This really is the finishing touch to my mid-century corner, and as an added bonus it is absolutely silent running – I hate the sound of a ticking clock! I can’t praise this business enough – British, artisan, brilliant retro designs and good old-fashioned materials. I love it!

Keep safe and don’t forget your masks!

Best wishes

Rachel

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To browse our serviced and fully working vintage sewing machines and attachments (including some of the buttonholers featured in this blog) visit the Etsy shop

30Jun2020

June 2020

Posted in Craft, Design, Etsy, Fabrics, Fashion, hand crank sewing machine, lockdown, Mid century, Retro, Sewing, singer sewing, Textiles, treadle sewing machine, Uncategorized, vintage by Vintage and Me

First of all this month I must introduce my first ever grandchild, Oscar, who was born on 19th to my son and his wife. What a little darling! It occurs to me to wonder whether this generation of babies will have difficulty reading facial expressions, because everybody apart from their parents has to wear a mask around them. We usually interact with babies by talking to them while pulling weird faces, but we’re going to have to rely on just our voices for a while. And cuddles! As my mother said, it’s so nice to have some good news in these strange times. Here he is at four days old…. 😊

That’s exciting enough, but I know what you really want to hear about is my refurbished sewing room! It’s been quite a roller-coaster but I think I’m just about there. With a lot of very much appreciated help from The Accountant!

Once I had sold my beloved cupboard-of-all-things work started to clear the room ready for the new storage units. This meant that the rest of the house was rather chaotic, with crates and sundry items stacked wherever I could find a space.

Going….. Going… Gone!

You can see that Frida oversaw operations, and it was so nice to be able to get into all those corners with Henry! Now, this gives you a first glimpse of one of my purchases – an absolutely gorgeous mid-century (of course!) Italian desk chair. Hardly any part of this chair is a straight line – there are graceful curves everywhere no matter from what angle it is viewed. It has such a Jetsons look about it! And it is very comfortable too. Previously I was using a pine carver from the kitchen at my treadle, and this chair was a real treat to myself. Unfortunately ParcelForce sent it to Swansea by mistake and it was so mis-handled during its circuitous journey that it arrived quite badly damaged and had to spend some time being glued and clamped before I could use it. The retailer refunded me accordingly so all ended well.

Sewing machines etc aside, I think this might be my favourite possession…

There was now going to be a delay of a couple of weeks before my Ikea delivery so I used the time to hang the wallpaper at the mid-century end of the room and source the other bits and pieces I needed to create the look I was after…..

There is a website called Spoonflower where you can browse thousands of designs and have them printed onto fabrics and wallpaper. Incidentally, you can also upload your own designs and have them printed, or add them to the collection for others to select. This sets my mind working…. Anyway, I ordered three pieces of fabric to make new cushions for the cocktail chair in the sewing room. They were printed onto quilting-weight cotton, but there are other fabric options. I backed the fabric with calico to give it a little more body and robustness before making up the cushions.

I then came across a piece of original 1950s French upholstery-weight fabric on Etsy and decided that it would work well for my chair, especially once the cushions were added. They really weren’t afraid to mix colour and pattern in this era and I embraced the idea, although I used a couple of recurring colours to create some cohesion – namely red and black. (This is the chair before its makeover!)

The atomic-inspired lamp was bought from a business called Funky Shades – Julie, the seller, makes these wonderful shades to pair with vintage lamp bases.

The glass-fronted display cabinet and asymmetric mirror were also eBay purchases.

Enough of the anticipation. Here is a montage of the room. It’s very difficult to photograph effectively without special equipment but I hope I’ve given you a feel for how it looks. I’m so pleased with the mid-century corner – The Accountant and I celebrated its success by drinking bubbly from vintage Babycham glasses, with Julie London singing in the background.

This is how the new storage works:

It has to be remembered that this is a wardrobe system, but I was able to make some very useful choices which suited my purpose extremely well. I chose a glass-fronted drawer with sectioned interior, as well as a pull-out tray with an insert, which I presume is intended for jewellery. These, along with a glass shelf above to make them more visible, are perfect to display my smaller SINGER collection. (This includes attachments, staff badges and all manner of advertising gimmicks.) Above these are three bookshelves. I decided I wanted the shelves to be only half the depth of the cupboard for two reasons – it’s more practical for books, and it showcases the collection below. The shallow shelves were not designed for these cupboards but luckily The Accountant is rather handy with drills and such like, so he was able to make them work. He also reinforced them underneath with extra wood battens when I said I was worried about the weight they were being expected to support. We’re a bit like the Wiltshire version of Dick and Angel: I dream up the ideas and he makes them happen!

In the other bank of cupboards there are shelves, and pull-out baskets which can accommodate all manner of things which benefit from easy access. I also added a ‘project shelf’. This is another of the pull-out trays, without an insert, which will enable me to store the cut pieces of a garment while I work on it. One of the things I used to find frustrating was cutting out a garment and then having to lay the pieces over the back of a chair, on the floor or wherever I could find a space. Not any more! Luxury! The storage boxes on the shelves are made from recycled plastic bottles and are designed to fit inside the cupboards in various configurations. I can honestly say that my day-to-day life is so much more straightforward now that everything has a proper place.

Shall we get into some detail now? I have added a simple white table, with drawer unit under, which helps when I’m working at my treadle-desk, but I can also use it for machining, crafting etc. The table is lightweight enough to be moved around if I want. From my desk I can see my favourite mid century SINGER shop window sign, among other treasures, and there is a new trio of succulents to add interest and life. It’s a much nicer place to work than it used to be. I have also seriously de-cluttered the window sill.

The sewing machine collection has been sorted. I already owned the three shelf units but because of the previous bad planning of the room they hadn’t all found their way in here before. It’s lovely to finally have all my SINGERs on display. And Frida stands ready to talk you through the collection…

And now the bit I know you have all been waiting for…..roll of drums…..the vintage corner! When this was finished and I stepped back to have a look it really reminded me of one of those museums where you hear middle-aged people saying: “My mum had one of those!”. And that’s a good thing, honest! It’s exactly what I hoped it would be.

Quirky, homely and containing some of my favourite things. What a happy girl!

And something of an improvement!

There was one other addition to the sewing room this month, and to the collection. A fabulous SINGER 401G electric swing-needle machine from 1957-ish. The styling is so typical of the era and the beige colouring, which might seem boring to us now, was the height of new fashion in the 1950s. Can you imagine deciding in 1957 that you would like to trade in your black and gold hand crank, and walking into the showroom to be confronted by this wonderful sight? Pretty mind-blowing I should think.

This particular model was manufactured in the German factory, and there was a sister machine, the 401A, manufactured in America. She has an aluminium casing and all metal gears apart from one, which was made from a very new substance called Textolite, a mix of Bakelite and textile-like fibres, which produces a very strong and resilient material.

She has a fair few built in stitch patterns and can also accommodate separate pattern cams to add to her repertoire. She would probably annoy anyone who is used to a more modern swing-needle machine because you have to twiddle two knobs as well as slide a lever to select zigzag, but to me she is a thing of vintage beauty. Look at that badge!

I found her on eBay, fifteen miles from where I live, and she came complete with her original case, instruction manual and all accessories. The seller was asking £95 but accepted my offer of £75. It was a very happy day! I picked her up that evening and couldn’t stop myself from having a play as soon as I got home. The next day I oiled her up and made the two new cushions with her. Atomic-style cushions made on an atomic-style machine! The Accountant asked if my cheeks were aching, because I hadn’t stopped smiling since I brought her home. I used the walking foot to stitch my layers together and the zipper/cording foot to attach the piped cording. This is a slant shank machine of course, so none of my other attachments will fit – that’s why it was important that she came complete with her own set.

That’s all for this month. Please do stay safe as we ease out of lock-down – I can’t help thinking there will be another surge of Covid-19 as people start to take fewer precautions….

With best wishes

Rachel

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31May2020

May 2020

Posted in Craft, Design, Embroidery, Fabrics, Fashion, hand crank sewing machine, Hand sewing, lockdown, Mid century, Retro, Sewing, singer sewing, Textiles, Uncategorized, vintage by Vintage and Me

What have you all been up to this month? I can’t believe how busy I am and how quickly the weeks are flying by! I suppose I have been working on quite a few projects. And sewing machine orders have been very strong!

It was my dream when I started Sew Nostalgic to be able to rescue two sewing machines a week. Well, thanks to the growing interest in what I do, my sales have increased somewhat and I love the fact that this enables me to rescue even more of these lovely old girls. I seem to have built myself a little reputation, of which I am very proud. Frequently customers thank me for what I do and tell me that they just can’t find fully functioning vintage sewing machines anywhere else. There are other sellers, but their machines are sold ‘as seen’ without any input from the retailer other than buying and selling on. So I seem to have carved myself a little niche!

All this means that I spend a lot more time on Sew Nostalgic, and other projects have to fit in where they can. Just recently I looked in at the door of my sewing room and saw it for what it is – an absolute mess! No matter what I do it always ends up with stuff all over the floor and piled on all the surfaces. And every time I need something it’s either under a pile or in a small cupboard behind another pile. Like many hobby rooms mine has grown organically, with random bits of storage added as needed. So I sat myself down and had a good think about this. That’s what I do. It might look like I’m doing nothing, but my little brain is very busy coming up with ideas at times like these. I could never do one of those 90 minute challenges on Sewing Bee because it would take me that long just to think about it!

I think we can all agree that there is a bit of a problem…

And no matter how I looked at it there was only one solution – more, and very efficient, storage. Now, I have had the above gorgeous crafting cupboard for over 15 years and this had become known in the family as the ‘cupboard-of-all-things’. My sons both knew that if they needed some paper, glue for a project, or maybe even a small bar of chocolate, it could probably be found in the cupboard-of-all-things. So it was with mixed feelings that I came to the conclusion that I had now outgrown my old friend and needed to move on. The way to go was floor-to-ceiling cupboards entirely across one wall and the removal of all other random storage.

My sewing room is not large and it has to work very hard for its living because it also houses my Singer collection, which takes up one long wall. And then there’s a 66k in a treadle table on the opposite wall, under the window. I’m sitting at this treadle as I type, because it also acts as my desk. Very appropriate I always think. And with the mechanism disabled I can work the treadle to exercise my ankles and get my blood circulating at the same time. Lock-down win! The room is also my base for blogging, photography, attachment sales, admin and everything else associated with Sew Nostalgic (apart from the mechanical side which thankfully is carried out in the garage/workshop). It’s a very busy space!

So once the storage decision had been made there was no stopping me. Within two days I had planned what I needed (from Ikea because for basic storage at a reasonable price they are brilliant) and sold my beloved cupboard. Luckily one of my lovely followers on Facebook bought her so I know she went to a truly appreciative home.

All this planning meant that I still had one corner of my room free. This is where the cupboard-of-all-things stood, and there’s a comfy mid-century cocktail chair there which I use when I’m hand sewing. Ideas started to take shape….

I had to remove two sets of display shelves to make way for the new storage and this left me with no space for all my lovely things. A girl has to display things! And so I came up with the idea of creating a mid-century corner. Apart from anything else it will give me a great photography backdrop! This corner will consist of a suitable wallpaper, a glass-fronted, dansette-legged display cabinet and my cocktail chair sporting new cushions. There will also be a suitable lamp, perhaps a couple of knick-knack shelves and some pictures on the wall. Oh, and my new sewing box will stand next to the chair. I really look forward to seeing all this come to fruition but at the moment I have been scuppered by Ikea being out of stock of the wardrobe frames I need. It’s so frustrating because I won’t get delivery until 7th June, so after all my harping on I’m afraid you’ll have to wait until the next blog to see any results. Sorry. Exciting though!

In the meantime I have completed another sewing project that had been abandoned last summer. The main sewing was done on my Singer 222k featherweight – one of my favourites. I did not enjoy making this dress, but partly through my own meddling (surely not!). The pattern was originally for a wrap-over style with bound edges but I decided that I wanted a non-wrap version with a full lining. The only thing that kept me going through this project was the halter-style neck and 1970s-ish collar. I think actually the result is quite nice and I was really pleased to remember that I had a white plastic belt buckle in my stash that was part of a bundle bought in a charity shop years ago. It’s perfect against the daisy print fabric! I made a webbing belt and added some charity shop buttons to make the dress a little more casual and retro. The plain green lining was all attached by hand and I think even Esme and Patrick would be pleased that you can’t see any of it from the right side!

(Although I love Frida, she is just a clothes horse really – her measurements are very 1940s and do not comply to mine. Hence the fit is more than a little dodgy on her!)

Here I want to pause for a moment to have a little gripe about dress patterns… I am able to stroll into any high street shop and buy an item of clothing which fits me very well without appearing to need any alterations. Why is it, then, that I had to adjust the length of the back bodice of this dress and make an alteration to the halter area to stop it looking baggy at the arm edge? This kind of thing happens all the time with dress patterns – surely standard sizing should be the same across the board? Am I the only one who gets cross about this? It’s so hard to make fitting adjustments on oneself, especially at the back. It makes me very irritable (in case you hadn’t noticed).

But what of the white flappy trousers? I hear you cry… Fear not, I found the curtains, and because I already have the trousers in navy it was a very simple task to put them together. I bound the crotch seams and facing edges with satin bias for a really neat but also comfortable finish. And I then had a genius idea! This came to me in the night and I had to wake The Accountant to tell him about it in case I forgot before morning. He said that if I did he would claim it as his own…

It had been bothering me that sometimes I would want the trousers to be really nautical (for my coastal picnics with suitable china) but at other times not. I really didn’t want to have to take off buttons and stitch on different ones for each look so what could I do? (I was not impressed by my sister’s suggestion that I just wear a long cardigan to cover them!) My solution is poppers dear reader! Well that’s what I’ve always called them, but I believe they are also known as snap fasteners or press studs. My idea was to stitch one part of the popper to the trousers and then glue the other part to the back of the button. The Accountant then suggested I just stitch the popper to the button, and I found that I could, with a little creativity. There is no limit to the number of interchangeable button sets I can now have! These buttons are purely decorative, with no function, but I wonder if you could also use the idea for functioning buttons if you used small enough poppers…? I shall christen this new invention ‘ButtonPops’.

This trouser pattern is Burda 6573 and it is one of the nicest patterns I have ever used. I rarely cut the same pattern twice because, once I know how something will look made up, I get bored with the idea of doing it again. But this pattern is so easy to put together and the end result is very flattering with the front waistband and the fact that the side seam comes round onto the front of the leg. I am already planning another pair in a bright mustard.

I made the trousers with my white Singer 221k. This model was only ever manufactured at Kilbowie on Clydebank. It differs from the black featherweights in that there is a toothed belt rather than cams and cogs driving the inside mechanisms. This can mean that the machine slips occasionally or has difficulty ‘getting going’ when sewing through several layers of fabric, but I can forgive her – she is cute! And she did a very good job for me. I always thank my machines at the end of a sewing day!

I used a few gadgets from the collection for this project – the good old binder being one. There have been a lot of adverts online for newfangled versions of this, but if the original Singer one fits your machine, you have no need of any other since they all do exactly the same job.

I also used the zipper or cording foot to insert an invisible zip. I’m always hearing that you need a special foot for this process, but I think it’s really unnecessary if you have one of these adjustable feet which enables you to get right up close to those teeth.

And because I wanted to finish the long seams with a zigzag stitch, this gave me the perfect opportunity to finally continue with my ‘active attachment’ testing. This is my favourite of the zigzaggers (Singer 160990) simply because of the lovely box it’s housed in, so I hoped it would perform well and not put me off it.

It’s really important to cover your feed dogs when you use these attachments, and many of them (including this one) come with a plate and screw for the job. However, I found that the plate kept shifting slightly, and because it has only a very small needle hole, I broke two needles. I wonder if I have the wrong fixing screw? Back to the collection, where I found the large cover plate pictured. This is Singer part number 121309 and it comes with a very specific screw which I’ve never come across anywhere else, making it essential that you ensure the screw is included if you find one of these for sale. The attachment has the ability to adjust both the length and width of the zigzag and once I’d spent some time setting these how I wanted them and adjusting the tension (it needed to be tighter on top) I progressed quite nicely. You have to be aware that you will never be able to thunder along like you would on a modern swing-needle machine – you have to take this zigzagging slowly and steadily. But that’s what vintage sewing is all about and I wouldn’t have it any other way. I can plan my next project, decide what to have for lunch, and even have the odd(!) conversation with The Accountant while the machine chugs away. All in all I still think this is my preferred zigzagger so far. Phew!

And here is a small video of her in action, you lucky people!

But enough of flappy trousers! There was one other project undertaken this month. I’ve got it into my head that I want to host some 1970s evenings when lock-down is finally over, just for fun. I’ve been working on my play list (oh how music can remind you of a certain time and place!) and collecting suitable crockery for these events. I have also purchased a contemporary electric fondue set from eBay. The excitement mounts! (Or so I keep trying to persuade The Accountant.) Such flares and platforms to be worn! I think I’m a little too long in the tooth for hot-pants though…

Anyway, as I was gazing adoringly at my Hornsea ‘Bronte’ china I thought how nice it would be to have a table runner to match it, just to add to the occasion. So I drew out my design and made a template, distorting the original just a little bit to fit the size I wanted.

After many hours of painstakingly hand blanket-stitching around my appliqued motifs, this is the result. Rather a lot of work for something that’s only supposed to be a bit of fun, but it’s nice to think it’s the only one of its kind in the world… And always will be – I’m not doing that again!

And on the right is a picture of our first fondue evening (for two of course!) featuring authentic fondue set (just look at the ombre colouring) more Hornsea crockery (this time ‘Saffron’) along with bar stools and napkins from the era. And there was a bit of Abba on the stereo of course! The fondue was delicious, but very rich, and there was definitely enough to share amongst at least four people. I think we might try a chocolate one next time…

Before I go, just one little purchase to share with you this month: a vintage SINGER seam ripper – a nice little addition to the collection!

Next month I will bring you pictures of a very organised and stylish sewing room, as well as more information about that idea I was talking about last month. Somehow I’ve run out of time for that – and also all my bits and bobs are in boxes while I sort out my new storage. I’m sure you don’t mind waiting!

I hope you continue to keep safe and well.

Best wishes

Rachel

For regular updates, follow us on Facebook

To browse our serviced and fully working vintage sewing machines and attachments, visit the Etsy shop

30Apr2020

April 2020

Posted in Etsy, Fabrics, Fashion, Hand sewing, lockdown, Mid century, Retro, Sewing, Uncategorized, vintage by Vintage and Me

April 2020. That date will certainly go down in history won’t it?! What I find most extraordinary is the speed with which we all accepted what was going on and how our lives had to change. If anyone had told me last year that the whole country/world would just stop everything and stay at home I would not have believed it. It’s the stuff of fiction. Driving through our small town to the supermarket is almost eerie while all the businesses are closed and there are so few people on the streets. And while I’m mentioning supermarkets, I would like to express my thanks to the people who have kept them and other essential businesses operating through all this. I’m sure that for some people just seeing those familiar faces once or twice a week has meant so much. We will always be hugely grateful to our health workers, care workers etc but let’s not forget those who have kept us supplied with all our wants and needs with little or no recognition. Thank you all and may you keep safe!

But I can’t get the thought out of my head that the world seems to be taking a huge, much needed breath. I have seen various posts about wild animals turning up where they haven’t been spotted before; improved air quality, and beaches clean and clear for the first time in years. And there have been other changes. My 83 year old mother reports that her neighbours have all been carrying out maintenance tasks that they’ve been putting off for years – painting fences, clearing guttering etc. My elder son (28!) has replaced the necessary parts on his camper van so it will be ready for the summer after all, and has also decorated the whole house. My younger son (27!) reports that his eczema has cleared up. He had been suffering from sore, cracked and infected hands for years but he has found that the calmer, less competitive home-working environment suits him and reduces his stress levels enormously. Similarly my great niece (who suffers bullying at school) has found that her eczema has cleared up now that she is away from that stressful environment. And so I can’t help wondering: will this unfortunate episode actually teach us a few things? Will we have learned different priorities and practices? I am really hoping that many people have found new interests and will also have learned that there can be better ways of doing things. And that we can get by with less…

I must apologise – this is not at all what my blog is about, but it’s such an important part of everyone’s life at the moment that it simply cannot be ignored. Anyway, let’s all be thankful for the wonder that is springtime – the garden is blossoming and the birds are busying themselves as ever. Some things don’t change thank goodness!

Now I will get down to more lighthearted matters because I truly believe it’s just as important to look after one’s mental as well as physical health! (To that end I had two slices of homemade cake and a bar of dairy milk for lunch the other day. I’m usually a very healthy eater but I just needed a lockdown blow-out!)

I have completed my Liberty wool skirt! Surprised? I am! I thoroughly enjoyed the project and stuck to my plan of not using a sewing machine – every stitch was put in by hand with a little number eight needle. I used a couple of techniques learned in my couture sewing books – there is a Dior style kick pleat in the back and a petersham-backed waistband, which is so comfortable to wear. I did put pockets in the side seams but these dragged on the soft fabric so I removed them again. That’s another thing I love about hand sewing – it’s so easy to undo!

And because I enjoyed that project so much I got carried away and made the top to go under my 1960s suit jacket as planned – also by hand! Lockdown madness!

So here are the images of what I have made this month:

Of course many people would prefer an invisible zip but I have never been scared of showing hand stitching, so long as it’s done neatly. In fact I rather like it. And at least my top edges meet up exactly – something you can be very watchful of when working by hand. The left-hand image shows the kick pleat, which is backed with a separate small panel of fabric. This means that you don’t have to worry about the lining showing as you move.

I made one change to the construction of the blouse. The pattern said to just turn a hem on the armhole edges but there is almost no ‘give’ in my chosen fabric and this would inevitably have caused some puckering, so I cut bias strips and bound them instead. Note that my 1960s suit has not been to the cleaners yet and is in great need of a pressing, but that will have to wait until more normal times… This lovely fabric, which I think is a viscose or rayon, came from Truro Fabrics and the colour is perfect with the suit without being boring I think. The pattern is Butterick 6684.

As I’ve mentioned before, I am not a purist when it comes to vintage clothing, and I like to find modern ways to wear it. This is how I am more likely to wear the jacket and blouse, and the skirt will probably be paired with a jumper, scarf, chunky bangles and boots.

The eagle-eyed among you will have noticed that Frida, my vintage Chil-Daw dress form, now has a stand! This is entirely due to The Accountant’s ingenuity and skill. I have two old Singer stools which don’t get sat on much, and he used one of the bases as….well, the basis. I was amazed to find, on going out to the workshop one day to discover what all the noise was about, that he had hand-carved a wooden screw to replicate the metal one on the stool, so the stool top can be replaced very simply at any time! He really is a genius sometimes! If only he liked mid-century design he would be just about perfect….

With the addition of a wooden broom handle Frida can now stand tall. We might have to sweep the floor on our hands and knees but priorities are priorities right?

My next project is going to be a pair of 1940s-ish trousers in white. I made the pattern up in navy blue last year and I love the shape of these so I want more. The plan is to make them from an old curtain, which was originally made from artists’ canvas. Confused? Let me explain. I once rented a house which needed some homely touches and I decided that cheerful curtains on the patio doors would be just the thing. But guess what? I couldn’t afford a large quantity of the expensive fabric which I liked – a Cath Kidston vintagey rose print. So I did a little research and discovered that I could buy white artists’ canvas for less than £5 a metre. It was 100% cotton and very wide, with a rather nice hang to it. I pre-washed it and ironed it dry to make sure it was stable and proceeded to make the curtains. I then bought just a minimal amount of the Cath fabric and made wide hems for the curtains from it, so I got the best of both worlds – cheap and cheerful!

Well those curtains were folded away for quite a few years after I left that house and I can’t see a place for them any more so the fabric can now have another life. I like that idea! I just need to find the curtains….

I have to admit to having spent some lockdown time browsing eBay for tat. Have you ever just entered ‘vintage sewing’ into the search box? It’s a veritable smorgasbord of treats. You need a slow afternoon to trawl through it all – and if you forget to filter the search for ‘UK only’ you could be there for a couple of days. I couldn’t resist this gorgeous sewing box/table – a lovely addition to my sewing room.

Of course I also search for other mid-century splendour and have recently bought this rather nice cup-and-plate thingy. I can imagine packing it into a picnic basket and heading for the coast. In my white trousers (flapping like curtains).

One slightly more serious purchase this month is a 1970s acrylic shop sign. Just having ‘SINGER Sewing Centre’ in gorgeous lettering makes my heart race. When I was growing up in Basingstoke there was a Singer shop in Wote Street and this takes me right back there. I can’t decide whether to hang it in the sewing room or above my bench in the workshop… Oh happy me!

Of course I haven’t been anywhere or done anything outside the home so there’s not much else to report. Sewing machines are still selling well in the Etsy shop so that’s keeping me busy, which is great. And I’m cooking up an idea that’s been niggling at me for some time and I hope to be able to share with you soon. Something new for the Etsy shop which I think you might like. If you’ve got any spare space on your sewing room wall….!

Keep safe and busy!

Rachel

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To browse our serviced and fully working vintage sewing machines and attachments, visit the Etsy shop

31Mar2020

March

Posted in Craft, Design, Embroidery, Fabrics, Fashion, Hand sewing, History, Learning, Mid century, Retro, Sewing, Textiles, Uncategorized, vintage by Vintage and Me

Oh my goodness – who knew when I wrote my February blog that everything would change so rapidly for us all? I don’t want to dwell on the current worldwide problems here, but ignoring them also seems totally inappropriate. I hope you are all coping well and keeping yourselves and all around you safe.

I am very fortunate in that I run my business from home, and most of my interests are home-based crafts, so having to practice social distancing is a relatively simple thing for me. I do feel for those people who don’t have hobbies and interests to keep them busy; it’s easy to be judgemental, but we are all different, and being ‘cooped up’ is far more difficult for some than for others.

So what kinds of things am I occupying myself with? Well, I had been planning to do some hand sewing for a while and this seems the perfect opportunity to start. I have always been fascinated by the process of couture dressmaking and I want to see whether I can make a garment in this way – that is, entirely hand stitched. During my research it has been lovely to re-visit my personal library, collected over many years, and discover books I had forgotten I had. The problem is that there are a number of antique sewing machines in front of our bookshelves, so browsing is a bit of a challenge! Extracting a book from the shelf through the ironwork of a treadle mechanism can be a bit like trying to negotiate one of those laser security devices you see in films….

But it’s so nice to reacquaint myself with the gentle art of looking at lovely books! It’s something I haven’t given much time to in recent years (always considering I have something more important to do) and I had forgotten how relaxing, therapeutic and inspiring it can be. So that’s a positive to come out of the current situation, though it could be seen to be somewhat self-indulgent.

Oh, and just to make sure I keep looking at lovely books, I treated myself to this one: “Mid Century Modern Living“. You know I have a passion for mid-century design and this book is a wonderful place to start if you want to dabble. I really like the way the authors share their inspiration – from the covers of sleazy novels to iconic buildings and gadgets. And the colours have me drooling!

I thought I would capture it with a couple of things from my collection – some original curtain fabric found at a flea market and some of my Royal Doulton china in the ‘Frost Pine’ pattern.

But getting back to the subject; because I haven’t done that much hand sewing in recent years I decided to start with a relatively simple project to get myself into the rhythm, and what better starting place than something in which to keep all my hand-sewing requisites?

Last year I bought a book called “Modern Folk Embroidery” by Nancy Nicholson and I decided that this was what I would base my design on. So, using a combination of stitches and ideas in the book I came up with a roll-up-pouch-type-thingy which houses needles, scissors, tape measure, beeswax and thimble, so that whenever I feel like doing some hand stitching everything is easily to hand. And it is so attractive in itself that I want to get it out and use it! It’s definitely modern, but it gives more than a gentle nod to the ladies of the past.

So this is what I have made this month:

Speaking of hand sewing, is this a familiar scenario with you? You settle down to some stitching, with thimble in place, and before you know it you’re holding the awkward be-thimbled finger up out of the way and using the others instead! Well, I have never got on with thimbles in the past but I think I might have found THE ONE! The Clover ‘protect and grip’ has a silicone body and a metal tip and it seems to work for me! Hurrah!

On the left, the collection of thimbles I have not got on with, and on the right my little hero. I bought the medium size and it is just perfect for me.

Another thing I have been keen to do is find out whether different needles would make any real difference to my hand stitching, both the quality and ease/comfort. I was reading the blog of a re-enactment enthusiast recently and she said she does all her stitching with vintage needles because the quality is just better. Well, I have quite a collection of those so let’s give it a go shall we? I shall compare them with the basic hemline packet we all probably have for stitching on the odd button, along with some Clover needles which are supposed to be top of the modern range.

The photographs above are not to scale – all the needles were a very similar size, apart from the Flora MacDonald which was tiny. I’m quite proud that I managed to thread them all to be honest!

I stitched a long running-stitch seam, changing to a different needle after every few inches; then I cut strips across the seam and re-seamed with each different needle, across the intersections, to test them through four thicknesses.

First of all I will say that vintage needles are not for me! I collect them because I love the little packets and the graphics on them. I’m actually very pleased that I can keep them all intact – there’s something about the shape of a full packet! I tried one “manufactured from finest cast steel” plus a nickel plated one. The reason I won’t be using them for my stitching is because there is quite a lot more resistance when pushing through the fabric – sometimes a little squeak is noticed! I definitely needed my thimble when passing through the four layers. And that’s even though some of the old needles were finer than the modern ones I chose. We must remember that there might have been some deterioration over the years, but I think that just emphasises the fact that new is best.

But aren’t they just so lovely? I shall continue to collect them…

Now for the modern ones. I tried the Hemline, plus a random packet I bought in Fabric Land years ago. Then I tried my super-duper Clover ‘black gold’ needles. These have gold eyes and are “specially polished with black plating”. If I am absolutely honest I didn’t notice any difference. All the modern needles slipped through all layers of fabric quite happily. I was a little miffed because I rather like the black gold ones and wanted to be able to champion them.

It never ceases to amaze me that garments such as those featured below all have one thing in common: they were all made with this simplest and most humble of tools – the hand sewing needle. We all know that fact, but it is sometimes nice to step back and consider what it means. Wow! You can refer to my previous blog to find out more about the history of the needle.

Of course, after 1850 the sewing machine started to creep in, but the average household would not have had access to one for many years yet. Firstly there was the general suspicion of new-fangled gadgets and secondly the household budget was controlled by men, and what did they care whether their womenfolk’s lives could be made easier?

Now that my hand sewing equipment is sorted and I have practised a few techniques, I feel it is time to try some seams…. It has come as a revelation to me to discover (on studying my books!) that much couture seaming is carried out with a running back stitch (that is, several running stitches and an occasional back stitch) or even a plain running stitch. Previously I would have been so worried about the strength of such a seam, but it appears that my fears were ungrounded. We home dressmakers worry too much. Of course it has to be remembered that a couture garment would never be chucked in the washing machine – anything you want to launder that way really needs to be more hard wearing. Or does it…? I will experiment later with a hand stitched shirt made from a machine-washable fabric and see what happens. But for now I am planning a skirt from a length of wool challis purchased from Liberty during their black Friday sale last year. Still expensive, but less eye-wateringly so, this is a fabric that I would never choose to machine wash, so is the ideal candidate for this project I think. I have a vision in my head of the type of skirt I want – slightly tulip shaped, with back zip and vent, and pockets in the side seams. I have done some basic pattern cutting in the past and so I have decided to try to cut my own pattern for this one. Oh dear – here I go again! Tune in next month for a (possibly lack of) progress report…

I don’t think I’ll be illustrating any fashion magazines any time soon…

Here are the results of my seam trials. I tried a running stitch, a running back stitch, a full back stitch and what I like to call a double running stitch – that is, I worked one row of running stitch and then went back along it, filling in the gaps. I don’t know if that is even a known technique but I am here to tell you that of all my tests this was the strongest, and when I tried to pull the seam apart it would not budge, whereas with the other techniques large gaps appeared when I did this. I always thought that the back stitch would be the strongest but in fact I was least satisfied with this of all the techniques. I suppose my double running stitch is more time consuming, but it is well worth it for a precious garment I think. I am aware, however, that with some fine fabrics it is preferable for the seam to give way than for the fabric to tear, so perhaps a running stitch would be more appropriate in that case.

I also made a French seam and a flat fell seam, just to try them out, and I think they would be perfectly acceptable for the right applications. Next I tried some edge-finishing techniques: overcast stitch, folded edge with overcast stitch, and bound (with silk organza to reduce bulk). All very usable. My wool skirt will be fully lined and only ever dry cleaned so I think overcasting will be my method of choice for this one – I certainly don’t want any bulky edges.

I always knew I loved hand sewing, but I have enjoyed these little tasters so much that I’m really looking forward to making a start on the skirt.

While I remember, I must tell you about this new Gutermann thread, which is 100% recycled from plastic bottles. I have done a little hand stitching with it and so far I am impressed – I’ve ordered a pack of 20 reels in good colours for all my general sewing. You can see the full range at Jaycotts.

This month I have become the very happy owner of a 1960s wool suit. It is so rare to find something from this era that is eminently wearable and in the right size that I didn’t hesitate to buy it. It was from the same Etsy shop as last month’s featured silk house robe and the moment I saw it I knew it had to be mine. I love the seaming and the pocket flaps! Now, I rarely wear a whole suit together and I am therefore busy coming up with ideas for outfits based around it. I found a beautiful piece of viscose fabric at Truro Fabrics which will make a lovely blouse to go under the jacket, and as it features a small navy flower, a simple navy skirt will complete the outfit nicely. I also have plans for a shift dress made in the cream colour of the check and bound in the gold colour. Oh, and a plain cream skirt. The ideas continue…

You get the gist…

The worldwide problems we are facing have had endless unpredictable impacts. The pattern cutting course I had enrolled on has been postponed and there will probably be no flea markets for the foreseeable future, but these are very small prices to pay compared to what so many people are having to endure. My niece runs a business called Midnight Costume Services and all her work has dried up as a result of productions being cancelled or put on hold. She has offered her services as a general seamstress in the meantime and also plans to offer on-line tuition, but her future is by no means assured. Where on earth will we all be in six months’ time? How many of our small businesses will survive this?

Recently in the UK we have experienced some lovely weather – cold but bright and sunny – after what feels like months of grey skies and howling winds. The Accountant and I, agreeing that all good things have to be appreciated at the moment, decided to have lunch on the patio, complete with a bottle of wine. We might not be able to visit family, peruse a museum or eat at a restaurant right now but it is still possible to enjoy the small things in life, and we all keep in touch via social media. There is such a lot to be thankful for – the birds are singing, the trees are budding and Amazon are still delivering!

I do wish you all well and hope we can all get back to normal again before too long. Keep safe!

Rachel

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29Feb2020

February

Posted in Childhood, Design, Etsy, Fashion, hand crank sewing machine, Mid century, Retro, Sewing, singer sewing, vintage by Vintage and Me

February is an odd month isn’t it? All the freshness of the new year has worn off and the weather continues to get you down if you let it. It’s also been a short month for me because I was away for part of it, drinking champagne on a Spanish beach to celebrate my birthday! The Accountant gave me this gorgeous bag for my travels – it has a lovely retro feel to it I think.

Unfortunately there were 40 mile an hour winds on the day that the flea market was supposed to take place, so we decided to give it a miss. I doubt many sellers attended anyway – who wants to display their precious wares in that? The next one isn’t until 12th April and I’ll be champing at the bit by then!

Mid February saw me tackle a pile of mending and alterations that had almost taken root in my sewing room. Among the items awaiting my attention was a set of overalls that I (‘The Boss’) had given The Accountant for Christmas…..2018! They were about a yard too long in the leg – such a simple thing but you know how it is. Anyway they are now corrected and he can wear them proudly in the workshop. I did the stitching on Agent 99 with a cording/zipper foot and seam guide fitted.

I love that he’s wearing a very accountanty shirt underneath!

Another item that received my attention this month was a beautiful 1940s silk house coat. Hems again! I think it had been redone at some point and badly pressed so it was hanging all wrong. Apart from that it really is a stunning thing and worthy of being worn as an evening coat to the right occasion I think. Otherwise I shall just swan around in it during our cocktail evenings at home…. I have found a wonderful dry cleaner where the staff are actually interested in the items you take in to them and take time to consider vintage trimmings etc. All my vintage dresses (unless they are crimplene!) are taken there and they always look really refreshed and rejuvenated when I get them back. This wonderful robe will be their next job. It’s very difficult to do it justice in the photographs – the colours are much more rich in real life, with a toning plain silk lining. Yum! It was bought from an Etsy shop called Susan Hayward Vintage.

(Look at the quilted edges and frogged fastening!)

Now, what new things have appeared at Sew Nostalgic this month? Well I have added to the toy machine collection somewhat! As you know The Accountant gave me a little black Singer 20-10 chain stitch machine for Christmas and I loved it so much that when I saw a beige version on Ebay for what I considered to be a reasonable price I snapped it up. It has its original box, clamp, instruction manual and packet of needles which makes it quite special as far as I’m concerned.

The instruction book has some very cute graphics!

Then I added the older model 20 just for good measure. This was probably manufactured in around 1910 and just look at that box. “As the twig is bent the tree’s inclined.” I think I get the gist of it – kind of if you learn something at a young age it will shape your adult life. It was probably a very well known phrase at the time but it seems a little awkward now. Anyway it’s a lovely piece of history. Obsessed with Singer? Moi? I don’t know what you mean!

But my favourite acquisition this month has to be the green 1950s toy machine, which also has its clamp and instructions. This model is usually made by Palitoy in my experience but mine has no markings on the machine or manual and the tape around the transit box says ‘Bristow Ltd Bristol’. I haven’t been able to find out any information about the company so far – whether they were a manufacturer, distributor or even a department store. I have wanted one of these forever just because of its shape and styling but they come up so infrequently and almost never in this lovely condition. This one was found at auction a long way from home – I was out for the day and had to leave The Accountant in charge of the online bidding. I wasn’t really expecting him to win because I thought I had given him a strict-ish budget, so imagine my joy when he nabbed it for £35 plus fees. Even with the shipping costs she is well worth it.

I don’t think I need to add any more to my collection…. (Shifty-eyed look.)

One of the projects I have set myself this year is to make some dresses based on my gruesome 1960s/70s ones. As I mentioned before I particularly like the seaming details and simple shapes of these garments and I have booked myself onto a four day pattern cutting workshop at Bath College to try to learn the skills I need. I am never worried about whether something I set out to do becomes a long-term project or never goes beyond the trials – I do like to try different things and I think that I always learn something from them, even if it’s not what I expected. The course runs in early April so I shall report on my progress (or lack of it) in April’s blog.

Talking of my gruesome dresses, I have decided to start sharing them with you – and how I wear them. First up is the blue/grey marl crimplene number from the late 60s. The seller had lost the belt that was supposed to come with it, although she did compensate me for this and the dress therefore cost me just £12. It was the unusual shoulder seaming and the neckline detail that drew me to it. I often wear it just as it is, usually with a black belt, but sometimes I jazz it up with a red cardigan and beads…

I haven’t had much time to sew this month but I have finished something that I’ve been working on for some time, in the evenings. I had felt as if I was knitting us a new driveway because it seemed to go on forever and it was just a grey rectangle. Anyway it has turned out just as I wanted it to – chunky and textured. The yarn was a Lion Brand product called Fishermen’s Wool and I chose the oatmeal colour. It was purchased online from Wool Warehouse.

I measured a ‘poncho’ (I’m not sure what else to call it) that I already had and then chose a stitch pattern, which is called ‘hurdle’ and consists of two rows of plain and two rows of k1, p1 ribbing. Simple and effective. I worked a tension square on size 5.5 needles and calculated how many stitches I needed for the width I wanted. Then I just kept on knitting until it was the right length. And knitting. And knitting! Pom poms were made to adorn the lower corner but they didn’t really add anything so I omitted them from the final garment. Being wool it is extremely warm – lovely!

That’s all for this month because as I said I’ve hardly been near a sewing machine and therefore haven’t managed to test a gadget, but fear not – the trials will continue in March!

Until then, I send you my best wishes.

Rachel

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31Jan2020

January

Posted in Antique, Craft, Design, Etsy, Fabrics, Fashion, hand crank sewing machine, Mid century, Recycling, Retro, Sewing, singer sewing, Textiles, vintage by Vintage and Me

2020 got off to a gentle start for Sew Nostalgic, although we sold 2 machines in the first week, which was unexpected. Wasn’t it difficult to write 2020 the first time…?

After the grand sewing room clean-up (which happened on the 4th) I settled down to continue with the navy blue jacket which I started back in May or June I think. I chose the pattern because I thought it was quite reminiscent of the 1940s with its interesting seaming and collar/neckline. I have come to realise as I sew that I have yet again caused myself unnecessary problems by choosing a very fine wool suiting to make it up in. The fineness of the fabric means that every seam has to be perfectly stitched and pressed and I’m really not achieving that. A slightly thicker fabric would have been so much more forgiving! Do you find that there is always a point in any sewing project when it looks just hugely messy and you feel it’s really not worth continuing because the garment will never look good? Or is that just me?

Well, it’s coming on right….? 😦

I used the Singer 222k featherweight to make the jacket. Just to recap, only around 100,000 of these were ever made – and all of those were made at the Kilbowie factory on Clydebank, Scotland. She really is a sweet little stitcher and her free-arm was very helpful while stitching in the sleeves. And because the jacket is fully lined I didn’t have to worry about zigzagging, so no extra attachments needed.

Speaking of zigzagging, I haven’t forgotten about my tests of these useful and sometimes amusing gadgets. This month I decided to continue with the Singer 160990. Most people will have seen pictures of these with their distinctive cream plastic boxes. I think it was the box which originally attracted me to it years ago – and I’m so glad I bought it because you don’t seem to be able to get one for much under £200 now.

This gadget comes with five interchangeable cams so that other stitch patterns can also be created. (Mine has one of the cams missing – number 5 – has anybody got a spare…?) If you are looking to acquire one of these, there are a number of things which you should make sure of. Firstly the box should contain, as well as the gadget itself, the five cams, a feed cover plate and a screw to affix this. The screw was missing from my box and I had to borrow one from another gadget which uses a similar cover plate. If I hadn’t had one of these I would have been scuppered because the screw is different to any others that Singer use. The instruction manual makes it very clear that you must not use the gadget without the cover plate in place for fear of damaging not only the gadget itself but your precious machine as well (feed dogs I assume). So do make sure all these things are included if you are planning a purchase. The final thing that you will need is the instruction manual. Again, mine was missing and I have bought a facsimile version, but I shall eternally be on the lookout for an original copy….

Now this gadget was precision made in Switzerland and you notice its quality as soon as you handle it. It’s less ‘tinny’ than the generic one I tested before. It still uses the normal presser foot thumb screw to fasten it on, with the same lever connecting to the needle clamp to create the necessary movement. But this gadget says SINGER on it. Twice. That’s probably enough to send me rushing out to buy one if I didn’t already own one.

But let’s see how well it works….

I tried a normal zigzag first and it had a nice positive feel. There was no catching of the fabric underneath the gadget as I experienced with the big black model. On a stable fabric such as I was using it was happy to sew over the edge to create a non-fraying finish. For a finer fabric I would probably zigzag first and then trim back to the stitching, but that’s what I’d do with a modern swing-needle machine anyway.

Next I put each cam in and tried the stitches they could produce (image above right – sorry about the poor quality). I can’t say I was hugely impressed. The system is very easy to use but the stitches are basic with minimal variation and I don’t think I would ever use them. Changing the stitch width and length was underwhelming to say the least. But as I said before it’s a reliable plain zigzagger I’m looking for.

I also did a little cording and inserted a piece of lace. Here are my thoughts and conclusions overall:

You need to work SLOWLY to use these gadgets. I can remember thundering along on an electronic Bernina, trying to get all my neatening done as quickly as possible. That will not work with an old gadget like this. Slow and steady is the way to go, and when you think about it they still saved a huge amount of time in their day!
If you’re inserting lace or doing some other delicate operation with this kind of gadget, tack first! It really is difficult to keep exactly on track when the fabric is moving from side to side and the gadget itself is often at a weird angle.
Practice. A lot. Everything becomes easier with practice!

I would say that so far this is my favourite of the zigzaggers. I felt a confidence in it which was lacking with the others. Unless something better comes along I can see this one being my go-to gadget in the future. I think the cams are a bit of a gimmick and I won’t really miss the one I don’t have. Once you have set your machine up to stitch well using the width/length of stitch you need, this gadget could really be your friend and perform those irksome tasks that your low shank machines can’t do on their own. And did I mention that it says SINGER on it? Twice?

Here is a mini clip of it in action:

That’s my beautiful 99K taking it for a ride…

Recently I have started to collect items of clothing from the late 1960s and into the 1970s. I don’t mean to say that I am wrapping them in acid free paper and preserving them for future generations – no, these are for me to wear! I suppose I became especially inspired by the Mary Quant exhibition at the V&A and realised I really like the simple shapes and sometimes unusual seaming of the clothing of the time. It’s funny how occasionally the more gruesome a dress looks the more I want to own it and see if I can make it look wearable today. I honestly never imagined I would be buying and wearing crimplene! But here I am! The Accountant is taking it in his stride. He was amused to note the label in one new acquisition, stating its composition as 96% polyester and 4% silk. He likes silk. What is so great is that none of my purchases has cost me much money so I feel able to experiment a little and not regret mistakes too much. I wore this gorgeous 1960s LBD to a party before Christmas – it cost less than £45 and made me feel very individual.

January saw the first flea market of the season at the Bath and West showground. We set off with great excitement and joined the long queue for the ticket kiosks. Understandably there were fewer sellers than in the warmer months – on a good summer’s day it can take us five hours to ‘do’ all the stalls but this time we were back home within three hours of setting out – and it takes over half an hour each way to drive. I’m glad we went – it blew away a few post-Christmas cobwebs, and as usual we saw a good mix of the weird and the wonderful. We found one old machine which was in a very sorry state, but it did offer spare parts and a case, and at £8 I wasn’t saying no. I am finding that machines in reasonable condition are getting more and more expensive and difficult to find so any bargain is fine by me. My only other purchase was two old packets of Singer needles – not standard (probably from some form of industrial machine) but I am hoping that we might be able to ‘doctor’ them to fit the toy Sewhandy machines, because those non-standard needles are no longer available. We’ll see…. Next flea is on Sunday 16th February.

Our personal collection of Sewing Machines was augmented this month by a lovely little Dorman. It’s hard to believe that this is a lockstitch machine but it has the cutest little shuttle and bobbin! This one has several bent components and is in urgent need of a spell in the workshop but I’m sure we’ll get some stitches out of her soon. This is really part of The Accountant’s collection but I have asked if I can share it because I can never resist anything miniature. I can’t remember whether he agreed but she’s in my sewing room for now……… 😉

That’s a 20p piece!

Finally for January, I spent some happy time last week choosing a gorgeous vintage quilt from Time Machine Quilting for my single guest bed. Julie started off just offering a machine quilting service (which she still does) but now she also rescues damaged or uncompleted vintage quilts and brings them back to a wonderful, usable condition. The colours are irresistible to anyone with a textile interest. To me it’s the textiles which really make a home, and a vintage quilt is the perfect way to welcome guests – especially now I have a grandchild on the way! The business is based in the depths of Wales but these wonderful quilts can be shipped all over the world via the Etsy shop. I expect I’ll be back for another one before long…

I’ll see you in February for more gadget madness, vintage musings and scrumptious purchases. Please do leave a comment if you enjoy reading this – or if you don’t!

Best wishes

Rachel

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